Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur Perched
on a 150 m high hill its sprawl is the most formidable and magnificent
fort in Rajasthan. Rao Jodha founded it in 1459 but subsequent rulers of
Jodhpur have also added to it over the centuries. |

Perched on a 150 m high hill its sprawl is the most formidable and magnificent
fort in Rajasthan. Rao Jodha founded it in 1459 but subsequent rulers of Jodhpur
have also added to it over the centuries. A meandering road leads to the from
the city 5 kms below. Battle scars of canon ball hit by attacking armies of
Jaipur can still be seen on the second gate.
To the left is chhatri of Kirat Singh Soda, a soldier who fell on the
spot while defending the fort against the armies of Amber. There are seven
gates, which include Jayapol meaning victory built by Maharaja Man Singh to
commemorate his victories over Jaipur and Bikaner armies. Fattehpol also
meaning victory gate was built by Maharaja Ajit Singh to mark the defeat of
Mughals.
And Lohapol meaning iron gate has a moving memorabilia
on palm print of the queens of Maharaja Man Singh who threw themselves on
his funeral pyre in an act of sati [self-immolation]. The palm imprints
still attract devotional attention and are covered by vermilion paste and
paper-thin silver foil.
Mehrangarh fort is about 5km from Jodhpur
Town. Guarding the city below, crowning a perpendicular cliff, the fort was
founded by Rao Jodha in 1459 AD when he shifted his capital from Mandore.
Standing sentinel to the city below, it over looks the rugged
and rocky terrain and houses a palace intricately adorned with long carved
panels and latticed windows exquisitely wrought from red sandstone.
The apartments within, have their own magic -the Moti mahal (Pearl
Palace), Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace), Sileh
Khana and Daulat Khana with a rich varied collection of palanquins, howdas,
royal cradles, miniature paintings of various schools, folk music,
instruments, costumes, furniture and an impressive armoury.
The
display of cannons on the ramparts near Chamunda temple is among the rarest
in India. As you climb up, folk musicians revive the grandeur of a bygone
era.
FORT
MUSEUM
This is one of the finest museums in Rajasthan and
certainly the best layed out. In the palanquin section of the fort museum,
you can see an interesting collection of old royal palanquins including the
elaborate domed gilt Mahadol palanquin, which was won in a battle from the
Governor of Gujarat in 1730. The museum exhibits the heritage of the
Rathores in arms, costumes, paintings and decorated period rooms.
PHOOL MAHAL The grandest of Mehrangarh's period
rooms, the Phool Mahal was in all likely hood a private and exclusive
chamber of pleasure dancing girls once swooned in exhaustion here under a
ceiling rich in gold filigree. The Phool Mahal was created by Maharaja
Abhaya Singh (1724-1749) and the gold came from Ahmedabad in Gujarat as war
booty after his famous victory over the rebellious Mughal governor,
Sarbuland Khan. The paintings, royal portraits and the ever-popular raga
mala, came much later, in the reign of Jaswant Singh II.
JHANKI
MAHAL The Jhanki Mahal, from where the royal ladies watched
the official proceedings, in the courtyard, today houses a rich collection
of the royal cradles. The cradles are decorated with gilt mirrors and
figures of fairies, elephant and birds
Entrance fees :
Rs 200/- (including camera, with audio guide)
Telephone No : 0291-2548790
Camera Fees: Video Camera Rs. 200/-
In 1458, secure in
his dominion, Jodha became the fifteenth Rathore ruler. The Raj Tilak or
formal anointment of the prince, necessary because it vests in the man
divinity, was performed by his elder brother Akhairaj, Ranmal's rightful
heir who renounced his claim in favor of his younger brother because the
latter had reconquered every inch of Marwar himself..
Within a
year of his accession Rao Jodha decided to build a new capital. The fort in
Mandore, already over a thousand years old, was no longer considered strong
and safe. In doing so he bequeathed to India one of her greatest forts and
most beautiful cities.
The foundation of this fort was laid on
12th May,1459 by Jodha himself on a rocky hill six miles south of Mandore.
The hill, a hundred and twenty meters high, was known as Bhakurcheeria, the
Mountain of Birds, or Cheeriatunk, the Bird's Beak. Its lone human occupant
at the time was an old hermit called Cheeria Nathji, the Lord of the Birds.(
Even today the fort is home to thousands of birds, particularly the Cheel or
Kite, the sacred bird of the Rathores.)
Auspicious though the
day, it was not a smooth beginning for Jodha because the disturbed hermit
left his cave cursing the invaders of his solitary world. His curse,
impossible to forget even today, "Jodha! May your citadel ever suffer a
scarcity of water!" A terrible curse anywhere, in Marwar heralding doom
itself. Undeterred Jodha continued with his construction but he did take
some measures to appease the gods. Besides building a house for Cheeria
Nathji in his new city he also constructed a temple in the fort very near
the cave the hermit used for meditation. The cave and temple together with a
pond in front form an enchanting spot today. And over five hundred years
later fresh flowers are still placed every morning in the temple to placate
the irate hermit...
Jodha then took the extreme step to ensure
the new site proved propitious; he buried a man alive in the foundations.
The man was Rajiya Bambi (Meghwal) and he was promised that in return his
family would forever more be looked after by the Rathores. It was a promise
that has been honored and Rajiya's descendants continue to enjoy a special
relationship with the Maharaja. A proud family they still live in Raj Bagh,
Rajiya's Garden, the estate bequeathed by Jodha.
Rajiya's fate
is an established fact of history but there are sources, albeit less
reliable, which record three other human sacrifices in the foundations of
Jodha's fort. Four in all, one for each corner if these sources are to be
believed. Of the three one is held to be Rajiya's son and another a Brahmin
named Mehran, both improbable choices. It seems unlikely that Jodha would
pick two men from the same family and a Hidu king sacrificing a Brahmin or
priest does not ring quite true.
The controversy remains alive
because these sources claim that Jodha named his new fort after Mehran.
Today the fort is indeed called Mehrangarh, Mehran's Fort, and it has been
for some time, but the origin of this name remains a mystery. Did Mehran
really exist and was he offered to the gods? For the present these are
secrets trapped in the depths of Bhakurcheeria. On the other hand the answer
may, in fact, be quite simple; Mehr is a Rajasthani word for the Sun and it
is not at all unlikely that the Rathores, who claim descent from the Sun,
would name their first citadel in His honor.
Whatever Jodha
named his fort, a citadel on which he spent all of rupees nine hundred
thousand, it was very different from what the present Maharaja of Jodhpur,
Gaj Singh II, inherited four hundred and ninety three years later. To begin
with, it was much, much smaller; the extremities of the original fortress
fall within the second gate today. As the Rathores grew more powerful
Mehrangarh, at once a symbol of their glory and the basis of their strength,
expanded. Every ruler left his mark and therein lies Mehrangarh's beauty,
for it is today a magnificent blend of different reigns and ages, styles and
influences, compulsions and dreams...
Its towering battlements,
a hundred and twenty feet high, and stern walls, in places six meters thick,
testify to the strength of Rao Maldev (1532-1562) in whose reign the
Rathores reached the zenith of their power. The palaces, extravagant and
exquisite edifices of peace and prosperity, whisper a thousand secrets; of
machiavellian intrigues, dazzling riches and decadent pleasures under the
imperial Mughal umbrella (1582-1739). The main gates, Fateh Pol and Jai Pol,
sing of great victories, against the Mughals in 1707 and the Jaipur forces a
hundred years later; while the lofty ramparts, fiercely brandishing Maharaja
Abhaya Singh's (1724-1749) war trophies, proclaim them to the world...
Mehrangarh has never, not even once, been taken in a siege. Invincible
and mighty, inspiring awe, admiration, envy and fear in friend and foe
alike, Mehrangarh is the very spirit of the Rathores. Indeed, no historian,
no white-whiskered royal retainer, no chronicle, no ballad, no poem can
rival the Citadel of the Sun in bringing alive the story of the Rathores of
Jodhpur. Every mile-stone in their adventure, every triumph, every act of
courage is immortalized here in stone and mortar, marble and metal. The
palaces, lavished with delicate friezes, record successful campaigns;
cart-loads of war booty and caravans laden with imperial favor. The
cenotaphs recount stirring tales of valor and sacrifice; cannon-ball marks
on the walls speak of repulsed enemies; the hand-prints, tiny and graceful
on the portals, weep in remembrance of faithful queens lost to the flames of
Sati...
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